Jasmin Verjus - Gooseberry chutney with fishcake
Recipe, Food-Styling, Photo & Styling:Oliver Schwarzwald
Seasonal calendar vs. gooseberry
The seasonal calendar can sometimes be deceptive (spoiler: 2024 is the frontrunner in this discipline so far). I actually rely on it and have done well with it for years, but now the gooseberry season is obviously ending earlier than expected. According to my fruit merchant, it's practically over here in the north, even though my favourite berry is actually hanging on the bush until August. Perhaps the situation is different in the south. That's why I would still like to recommend this delicious recipe to you.
Ok, no more fresh gooseberries? No problem! The frozen variety is available all year round and a mix of berries from the freezer could also harmonise perfectly. Gooseberries play a central role in this dish with their astringent effect. The skin contains bitter substances that leave a slightly dry, astringent feeling in the mouth. Not everyone likes this, which is probably why the gooseberry is increasingly struggling. The fact is that it is less and less in demand and therefore less available. But I think they are wonderful! The tart flavour of the skin complements the sweetness and acidity of the chutney perfectly. However, if it is difficult to get hold of gooseberries, they can be replaced by other berries that have similar bitter and astringent properties. Blackcurrants, cranberries, cranberries, raspberries and blueberries are perfect substitutes and give the chutney a similar complexity of flavour. It is important to adjust the acidity and the amount of sugar and vinegar in the recipe.
A particular highlight of this recipe is the smoked trout, which gives the dish a distinctive flavour. Lucky you if you have a small smoker, as you can adjust the intensity of the smoky flavour. I use a little less smoked flour because I like it with a subtle smoky flavour. Self-smoked trout is much more nuanced than shop-bought smoked trout. A smoker is neither expensive nor complicated to use and opens up completely new culinary possibilities. It has also been used for this pairing. It's worth it, and it's also suitable for the balcony. But it's not a must! Ready-made smoked trout is easy to get hold of and also works very well.
As already mentioned, the centrepiece of this dish is the smoked and fried fishcake, which harmonises perfectly with the gooseberry chutney with ginger. The ginger gives the chutney a surprisingly spicy flavour. The chilli in the fishcake should only be seen as a small support. If you don't like it that spicy, leave the chilli out of the fishcake.
A refreshing drink made from jasmine, verjus and honey syrup goes well with it. This simple drink is cooling and, with the acidity of the verjus, a perfect choice for the chutney. We shouldn't skimp on the honey - the higher the quality, the more complex the honey and the more intense the flavour of the syrup we make from it. I brew the jasmine tea a little stronger than the instructions on the packet. The recommendation is usually 1 teaspoon per 200 ml of water. I use a generous teaspoon so that the tea has a little more flavour. I don't mind if it becomes a little bitter. The tannins are very welcome here. Try it, it's delicious!
Cheers!
Recipe, Food-Styling, Photo & Styling:Oliver Schwarzwald
Gooseberry chutney with ginger
Ingredients:
4 people
300 g gooseberries
1/2 red onion
2 tsp grated ginger
120 ml vinegar
120 g sugar
1 tbsp oil
Preparation:
1. peel the onion and cut into fine rings.
2. heat the oil in a pan and gently fry the onion rings.
3. add the sugar and allow to caramelise.
4 Deglaze with vinegar, then add the gooseberries and ginger.
5. allow everything to reduce considerably, for about 30 minutes, until the mixture is syrupy.
Smoked fishcakes
Ingredients:
4 people
200 g smoked trout fillet (preferably home-smoked)
200 g pre-cooked and peeled potatoes
1 pinch of chilli
Juice of one lime
Salt and pepper to taste
1 egg
Panko (Japanese breadcrumbs)
flour for turning
500 ml oil for frying
Preparation:
1. mix the smoked trout, pre-cooked potatoes, chopped chilli, lime juice, salt and pepper well in a bowl.
2. form small fishcakes from the mixture and chill them for 20 to 25 minutes in the fridge or briefly in the freezer.
3. coat the fishcakes first in flour, then in beaten egg and finally in panko.
4. heat the oil in a pan or deep fryer to 180 °C and fry the fishcakes until golden brown.
Recipe, Food-Styling, Photo & Styling:Oliver Schwarzwald
Honey syrup
For 4 drinks
200 ml water
200 g high quality honey
Heat the water and honey in a pan and boil briefly. Remove from the heat and leave to evaporate.
The drink :
Ingredients for 1 drink
4 CL honey syrup
6 CL Verjus pure
6 CL jasmine tea - brewed hot according to pack instructions
Garnish Slice of dried orange
Pour ice cubes into a bar glass or similar.
Add all the honey syrup, verjuice and tea.
Stir for 20 - 30 seconds until cold.
Strain into chilled glasses.
